AngleKing is a revolutionary spinner that goes way beyond any underspin out there because the idea behind it. What I was after was a very versatile underspin that could be fished for a variety of species, that could be reeled at all different speeds and that offered more presentation possibilities than anything that has come before. AngleKing has properties of a jig, a crank bait and a spinner all in one. It can be fished very simply with a straight cast and retrieve, one need not be an expert to use this lure. However, it is a lure of matchless versatility and can be fished at many angles and speeds to induce strikes under tough conditions. It also accepts a wide variety of tails. The more advanced angler will appreciate how they can fish the lure a lot of different ways for those days when one needs to move beyond basic to unlock the bite. Here’s a few tips on the lure that I have gleaned through more than a year of testing:
Clack Effect: The above video depicts one of the most unique and advanced features that Angle King possesses, clack effect. The ticking sound one hears is caused by the front spinner array clicking against the rear one thereby producing a sound that makes fish curious, angry and/or aggressive. In windy conditions, stained or murky water and on highly pressured lakes clack will draw fish to the lure and produce amazingly hard strikes. AngleKing is the only underspin to have it, the others don’t whether one bladed or twin.
First off the best way to fish an AngleKing is by using a fast snap or a lock snap. I like fast snaps because they are easier to use. By using a snap one can change between the three line ties rapidly and easily (which changes the speed and angle of the bait). It also allows the lure greater of freedom of movement.
Secondly, even though this bait has a variety of options in the way it can be fished one of the best ways to use it is with a steady retrieve. 8 out of 10 times all one need do is fasten the line to the middle tie, cast it out, count it down to the preferred depth and bring the bait back at a medium pace. One need not know all the “tricks” to slay fish with Angle King.
However, here are some of the more technical aspects of the lure that you can change to meet your fishing conditions:
ANGLE- Angle can be changed three ways: line tie, tail choice and blade set-up. Angle is affected most readily by changing the position of the line tie amongst the three available eyelets.
Like any multi-tie lure the further forward you tie on the more horizontal the bait is going to run and the speed it can be retrieved increases while side to side action is reduced.
FRONT TIE- For higher speed retrieves on a horizontal to 15 degree line. The forward blade may not spin in complete circles if the retrieve is very fast but it shakes and wobbles and provides a cymbal for the back array to clack against to make some noise. You can use big, long tails with this tie on.
MIDDLE TIE-the middle tie is the one from the actual jig hook. Middle is the tie most used. In fact I tell people that 80% of the time just fasten on the middle tie and use a medium retrieve. Depending on tail choice, blades and speed of retrieve this one will run near horizontal up to a 30 degree angle or more. You can run it pretty fast, maybe not 9 to 1 rip speed but it will click along at a nice pace and has a huge sound as the blades click and clack as they turn.
BACK TIE-for moderate to sloooooow retrieves. One needs to take care because if you go too fast on this tie setting the bait will keel. On the other hand one can get this lure right up to a 45-60 degree crank bait angle when used with our RingKing paddle tail swim grub. The swim tail standing up, bumping over logs and rocks, has the look of a minnow picking its way along looking for food. This is the most snag free setting for stump knocking and rock running. And the blades turn at a high pace in spite of retrieve speed because of all the water pressure generated.
TAIL CHOICE-my favorite tail for this bait in this size is what it comes with, our 3″ RingKing paddle tail swim grub. Other tails will work. HOWEVER, not all tails work well. Tails that are round or loaf shaped are the best because they do not interfere with the spinner blades and have a wider range of balance. Twisters, beavers, split tails, grass pigs, little senkos and tubes all work very well. Shad bodies, flukes and other flat, narrow body plastics with that “fish belly” look are not good for two reasons. One is that a lure body that is taller than it is wide has a way lower range of balance. Also, those with a belly tend to mess up the run of the blades. By keeping the action of the lure in mind while experimenting with different tails and don’t forget that we offer a line of natural tail baits using turkey ‘bou, bucktail, hackle and other jig making materials for the tail.
One thing to keep in mind as one tries out different shapes and sizes is the longer the tail the more drag and less angle. Twisters also have less angle because of the drag of the eel tail which is nice for mellow retrieves where a more horizontal approach is needed. Boot tails give off a lot of noise and are stiffer therefore “angle up” more readily. Tubes just threaded on like any other plastic tails work great but you may want to glue them. Grubs without much tail action give the biggest and most plug/crank bait like angle. Play around, have fun and tell me what you find out about other sorts of tails.
Indiana Array-the best of both worlds it’s a spinner shape sitting comfortably between a Colrado and a Willow. Good angle, higher speed of retrieve and bigger blades are used on these giving this one almost the same resistance as the Colorado. Noisy as heck!
Colorado Array: Colorado spinners turn slowest and have the most hydroresistance. They are more visible from in front, from behind or below a lure. The lure will have the greatest angle with a Colorado set-up and the clack is nice and thumpy (is that a word?).
Indy/Willow Leaf Array-Willow Leaf spinners have the least hydro resistance and are most visible to fish seeing the bait from the side. They allow for the fastest retrieve with a higher frequency clack. They also drop faster for deeper water fishing.
Blade arrays can be moved, changed or removed completely to achieve different angles and effects. For eample, take the front array off and one has a simple underspin. Take the back array off and the noise drops but the angle stays strong. Want more angle? Take the front blade off and replace it with the bigger back blade array. All you need is some split ring pliers.
See what I mean? AngleKing is a simple cast and retrieve lure for anyone, beginner or experienced, right out of the package, but serious/geeked out anglers can mess with these different aspects of the bait to prodcee all kinds of results. It was designed so fishers could play with it.